One night in San Sebastian, Spain

A barman glides past; the plate he’s bearing is dripping with the most wondrously marbled, slices of Jabugo ham, a delicacy amongst the locals. The sun is setting over San Sebastian’s beaches and the food rushing past my nose is only further evidence of what is becoming abundantly clear; the produce is fresh, the people vibrant, and the food exceptional. The proud locals of this equally proud city wouldn’t have it any other way; Basques are exquisitely fussy about their food not least of all the natives of San Sebastian’s pristine coast line where the numerous bars, cafe’s and clubs come to life when the sun goes down.

This exuberant and glamorous city is considered the best place to eat in Spain which places it fairly close to the epicentre of the culinary world today. It’s here that the subculture of the legendary pintxo (tapas) bar cuisine reigns supreme in an area that is home to more Michelin stars per square metre than anywhere else on earth. However, it is not the world renowned restaurants overflowing with Michelin stars that makes San Sebastian the culinary destination that it undoubtedly is. It’s the tapas bars, seaside cafes, traditional cider bars and fresh food markets lining La Concha Bay that has tens of thousands flocking to her fair shores every year, myself included.

I’m here to check out the Tapas bars dotted throughout the Old Quarter where I’m told the evening’s best entertainment is the food itself. My first stop is La Cepa, a small bar on the northern edge of town. The menu ranges from red pimientos stuffed with bacalao paste; plump, green Gernika peppers; garlic-speckled anchovies in oil and vinegar; chorizos; quails’ eggs and a little dish known locally as mejillones tigres which translates to something along the lines of tiger mussels. The mussels are served hot on a large, flat seashell covered with a thin crust of egg-fried breadcrumbs. These are nestled beneath a tangy little concoction of finely chopped mussels swimming in a blend of olive oil, chile and béchamel sauce. The food is sublime and in keeping with tradition my mussels are washed down with a glass of locally sourced rather zippy white wine.
A short walk down town brings me to my next stop, Rojo Y Negro. This I’m told is where the locals come to dine. Vibrantly lit and filled with equally vibrant people it’s easy to see why San Sebastian has become the food Mecca that it is. The locals are passionate about their produce, their wine and most of all their food. It forms a part of everyday life and eating is a communal experience and a festive one at that. My waiter suggests I try the marinated Octopus and meatballs in tomato sauce. At €6 it is slightly more expensive than most of the local Tapas and the mix of seafood and beef is not exactly my cup of tea but the atmosphere more than makes up for any reservations I may have had.

My next stop is Bar Asador Ganbara, a traditional tapas bar adorned with soft timbers and beautiful stained glass windows. Here I am tempted by the house speciality tartaleta de chagurro (grilled crab pie) and a crab/prawn platter served with herb aioli which is made by the chefs on site. Both dishes are excellent and are coupled with a pale, dry wine, known as Txakoli, recommended by another vibrant Spaniard behind the bar. The Basque custom, observed in most local bars is to ask the barman (as they are seldom barwoman) for a plate, and simply load onto it the things you wish to eat. It is up to you to keep tabs of how many plates you’ve used and when the time comes to pay, the barman will trust you not to have cheated him.

I had not planned on visiting Goiz Argi but the smell of fresh seafood coupled with aromatic spices was just too much to resist. Sitting outside watching the locals walk by was nearly as enjoyable as the food on offer which included Brocheta de gambas (fried prawns with special vinaigrette) and Bola de carne (meat ball with red pepper). An eccentric mix of fresh produce, aromatic spices and a spectrum of locals splashed across the moonlit backdrop made Goiz Argi one of my favoured destinations and a welcome addition to my Tapas experience.

It’s getting close to midnight and the streets of the Old quarter are still humming with a good natured local’s content to carry the festivities well into the morning. I on the other hand, met some fellow travellers at an old bullfighting arena (now the Plaza de la Constitution) which proved to be the perfect spot for a nightcap. A local friend joined us who suggested another local beverage know as sidra, a slightly tart indigenous drink traditionally poured from a bottle raised above the bartenders head into a glass below.

The city has won me over, it’s easy to get lost in the vibrant pace of the town, a place where good wine, festive people and sublime food all meet to create a true food lovers paradise where only good conversation and laughter can be heard all around. As the night rolls on one drink turns into two and two drinks soon turn into four just as the sun begins to peak over the mountains which surround this seaside town and with that it is time to go home. As I walk through the cobble stone streets back to my hotel, I’m amazed to see La Cepa’s morning patrons sitting out the front, reading newspapers, smoking cigarettes and drinking coffee. In that moment I can only feel an overwhelming appreciation for the town, its food and the proud Basques who keep its’ strong culinary traditions alive.

by Carol Griffin

Contact your Concierge Traveller Advisor about holidays to San Sebastian in Spain, or other Spanish holidays on 1800 047 047.

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