Stroll along the pedestrian paths around its edge, then enjoy an espresso and pastry at the lakeside cafe.

Hanoi, the capital of North Vietnam 1954-76 and of French Indochina for 70 years before that, is a river city 1,120 km north of Ho Chi Minh City. It has, alas, been forever changed by the introduction of literally millions of motorbikes, which dodge, weave and honk through the narrow streets of the Old Quarter and down the broad, old avenues of the Colonial District.

Motorbike taxis (motos) are everywhere, though, especially near hotels and restaurants. On the saddle behind someone who knows how to navigate the chaos, travelling around Hanoi can be a kind of terrifying fun. Automobile taxis are also available, but they’re more expensive.

Hoan Kiem Lake is the heart of the city. Stroll along the pedestrian paths around its edge, then enjoy an espresso and pastry at the lakeside cafe. Cross red-painted Rising Sun Bridge to enjoy the relative quiet around Ngoc Son temple. Visit the Temple of Literature, the only remaining original building at the 1,000-year-old Hanoi University. Take a taxi northwest of the lake to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum.

Several museums are worth visiting: The Museum of Ethnology, the Museum of History and the Museum of Women that lauds Vietnamese women’s role in military and domestic history.

When to travel to Hanoi

The climate of Vietnam varies greatly from north to south due to its long and narrow territory and you can never judge Hanoi’s weather from the knowledge of other Vietnamese regions. Hanoi is most pleasant from February to April and September to November avoiding the heat and the rain.